are Susan and John (Chris) Morrill and developed Intrigue Rhodesian Ridgebacks with
the purchase of our foundation girl, Gemini, in 2003. Our original
goal was to get a well bred pet for our active lifestyle. Gemini was
the pick bitch in a litter of 13, bred by Toni Salter and Marjorie
Crouch of Tandiwe Ridgebacks. With a show contract in hand and absolutely no idea
where we were headed, we were well on the way to a major
change. Gemini went Reserve in her first show, and the rest followed.
Our dogs live in the house with us, we are not a kennel nor do we breed often. This is a purely a hobby for us, so we breed when we want a puppy for ourselves. We do not supplement our income, nor is this an income based endeavor. We currently have 4 ridgebacks, and a rescue mix breed. Chris is the Director of Facilities for IHOP, and I am finishing my Dietetics degree at UNCG for my second career. We enjoy performance events as time permits, but spend more time hiking and running our dogs at home.
It all started when we were at a show, our very 1st show, in Virginia Beach, in 2003 and Gemini would not show for our breeder, wanted "mommy" and Susan said "I can do that", " I just run in a circle, stop and hold my leash up", "not hard". Susan went out that night, bought some show clothes. The next day she showed Gemini in the 6-9 puppy class to Judge Michelle Billings at the National!! Judge Billings had a few handling tips for Susan in the ring as well as pointing in the direction she needed to go... and so the journey began!!
Health Testing here at Intrigue
Health Testing here at Intrigue
All of our dogs have passed the necessary tests for our breed. This includes OFA Hips, Elbows, Thyroid, Eyes, Cardiac, EOAD Deafness, and DM DNA. The stud dogs we choose also have passed this set of tests. Thyroid is a big issue in ridgebacks, so we retest several times in a dog's lifetime. Gemini, Apollo, Calypso and Titan have all been retested as Veterans (between ages 8-10 yrs)., and passed.
We only breed a litter every couple of years, sometimes longer. The amount of time it takes to properly rear puppies is utterly exhausting. Pups are whelped in our home and under 24 hour watch for the first couple of weeks at least. Dew claws are removed at a couple days old, and vet checks are done for cleft palette by our reproductive vet. At about 4 weeks, puppies head out to the puppy room and then outdoors during parts of the day for exercise, again, supervised always. Once weaned, they are fed a quality holistic kibble with raw additions, and goat milk. We do not suggest full raw diets until pups are mature, such as 18 months old. Fast growth and imbalances occur way too often, and I see it even in puppies fed by more experienced raw feeders. Pre-made raw diets (Instinct or Stella & Chewy for example) also tend to be too low in calcium, and calories for ridgeback puppies. You could spend a fortune trying to keep up fed as a sole source. The skeleton of a large breed dog can suffer, and its not a risk worth taking, so we advise at least 1/2 kibble to our owners until that growth period has passed. Pups are wormed multiple times, and have their first vet exam (and vaccines) before they head home, and are also micro-chipped. Puppies are released to their new homes at 8-9 weeks. 8 weeks is a critical period for bonding, and we see the change over in the 7th week as pups transition from interest so much in their littermates to more interest in human contact/ interaction. Simply put, puppies are looking for "their human". We are there to support our owners for the lifetime of the puppy as well.
We also strive as a part of our breeding program to produce a very well rounded Ridgeback. We obviously look to improve conformation, but also look hard at the performance side of pedigrees. We have learned more about correct structure watching a Ridgeback run in the field or in agility than at any dog show. Lure coursing, for example, shows whether the structure is true to function and survival. Our standard is built around a dog where speed and agility are imperative to survive the lunges of a lion. Holding a lion at bay for hunters was the original job of the Ridgeback. A dog that is too long in the loin is hindered in the agility needed for quick sharp turns. We also look for a well balanced dog, front to rear. As an artist with my bachelor’s in Art History, I look at everything in the world as if it's a painting. The picture must be harmonious, fitting and well balanced. When viewing a dog, you do not ever want to see "parts", but rather a whole that works. The pieces should match and flow. I want a strong rear with plenty of thigh and muscle, for powerful drive. I do not want a top heavy, overdone front end. Ridgebacks are a sight-hound after all. Not a sporting breed nor a working breed. Front substance should balance with the rear substance. We look hard at this as well in dogs we breed.
We are also very specific about nutrition and vaccinations. Our dogs are raw fed a meat/bones diet, with vegetables and supplements. We do a lot with antioxidants and probiotics as well. Puppies are raised on a moderate protein kibble with raw additions. I do believe nutrition plays a roll in a more even growth pattern. We have also seen the impact a good diet has on health, energy, aging and coat.
As for vaccines, we only DHPP and Rabies, ALWAYS given separately. We then do titers every three years vs a booster, to verify need. Autoimmune diseases are definitely on the rise as a result of vaccinosis (over vaccination), as are allergies and thyroid malfunction. We have also seen skin reactions to the Fort Dodge Rabies, for example. For heart worms, we use Sentinel. We also test for heart worms annually. We are not fans of topical (chemical) flea and tick medications. And avoid them whenever possible.